Meet Berlin’s Up-And-Coming Wedding Neighbourhood
Cam Hassard is an international penman, sax-wielder and rogue wayfarer…
Multicultural, sprawling and for years touted as the “big next thing” in Berlin, the city’s northern Wedding district keeps marching to its own beat, a largely undiscovered borough with a bunch of hidden gems deep within it.
Thanks to runaway rental prices, tech industry influx and gentrification, Berlin has shifted dramatically in recent years, becoming one of the best cities in the world for millennials to live. But there are still some pockets in Wedding where the Berlin of old thrives — at least a few glimmers of it, unbeknownst to its neighbouring districts.
[related_articles]67669,59614,51457,49626[/related_articles]Here are the underrated Wedding hotspots you really ought to check out.
What to see in Wedding
Silent Green
In a city synonymous with abandoned, post-Cold War relics and reclaimed urban spaces, Silent Green is a notable standout.
The former crematorium is today a thriving, privately owned Kulturquartier: an event venue, independent art project, and protected space for thinking, research, and experimentation. They put on a range of gigs and concerts throughout the year, and the acoustics and vibe are nothing short of spectacular.
Humboldthain Flak Tower
Though technically situated in Gesundbrunnen, a neighbouring district on the border located between Wedding and central district Mitte, Humboldthain is an impressive, sprawling park and garden with a difference: it’s home to a massive WWII-era anti-aircraft bunker.
A noted contrast to the park’s nearby rose garden and walking trails, it’s well worth the walk up to the summit of this concrete Goliath. An impressive view of the city’s North from here makes it the perfect spot for a beer stop under the long summer sunset.
Brunnenplatz castle
A neo-gothic castle in the suburbs of Berlin? Wedding might not be known for its architectural ‘beauty’ in the traditional sense of the word, but there are a few standouts worthy of mention.
Nestled along Wedding’s major Pankstrasse artery, the historic Amtsgericht (i.e. the district courthouse) is an incongruous sight, and a rare treat for the architectural eye.
What to drink in Wedding
Vagabund Brauerei
Wedding may not be laden with the per-capita smattering of bars and clubs that hipper districts like Neukölln and Kreuzberg boast, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t hold its own. You just need to know where to go.
One major virtue of this area is that it’s home to a couple of fabulous craft breweries: notably Vagabund, founded in 2001 by a trio of Americans. It’s a thriving local institution, and a worthy counterpoint to the abundance of traditional German bier options on offer.
Eschenbrau
You’ve got your work cut out for you at Eschenbrau, where the taps are many and the beer is endless. Situated right next to Vagabund, the Deutsch crew in this former student union bar have been pumping out delicious local craft suds for years now, providing an authentic local counterpoint to the expat craft offerings.
With a raft of seasonal styles, you’ll find some of the best brew in town here, making it well worth the trip off the beaten track. (Pro tip: try the house special, the ‘Weddinator’. It’s everything you could hope for in a mug of froth.)
Anita Berber
Anita Berber was a dynamic German dancer, actress, and writer of the roaring 1920s Weimar years in Berlin, known for her excesses, uber-progressive sexual attitudes, and iconic personality.
Her spirit lives on in this eponymous Wedding nightspot, a smoky, dimly lit half cocktail bar, half club known for its sexy vibe and excellent drinks.
A difficult to find spot in the very best kind of Berlin way, the crowds here are usually rather considered, gregarious, and pretty chilled out, making it a fine way to while away the evening and pretend you’re 100 years in the past.
What to eat in Wedding
Ernst
Ultra-exclusive fine dining in Wedding? It’s a thing folks.
Since 2015, unique local dinery Ernst has been perhaps the most difficult reservation to land in Berlin. Founded by Canadian culinary wunderkind Dylan Watson-Brawn, this boutique dining experience – formerly located in a converted apartment, now in its own established venue – offers diners a 12-seat, open kitchen dining experience, featuring a 30-course degustation that showcases the finest in local seasonal ingredients.
It’s a truly one of a kind Berlin dining experience.
Stranero
Best pizza in the city? It’s probably not far off. Best pizza in Wedding? Absolutely.
You could almost hear the collective rejoice of the locals in Wedding’s Osram kiez a few years back when Stranero opened its doors. Here’s where you get delicious, authentic, minimalist, Italian-style goodness, served without fuss.
Café Pfortner
Café Pfortner is one of those local institutions that’s always interesting, always unique, and always good.
Once the gatekeeper’s house of an old BVG (local transit operator) repair shop, this rambling brick structure dishes up some of the city’s best Italian-inspired, international cuisine, complete with a novelty lounge room constructed from a former 1970s BVG bus. It’s uniquely Berlin, and just plain unique.
(Lead image: Anita Berber / Facebook)
Cam Hassard is an international penman, sax-wielder and rogue wayfarer who writes for Junkee, Carryology, Huckberry, Caddie, Fairfax Media, Carryology, Intrepid, Peregrine Adventures and Europe Up Close. He’s eaten ant salad in Laos, hauled trucks from NYC to Vegas, and destroyed himself on the Camino de Santiago. Originally from Melbourne, he currently calls Berlin home.